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Skill Level: Advanced
jewellery making hints and tips

How to create a vintage brooch

Sapphire Cascade Earrings

Step One

Make a brooch pin to fit the back of your cabochon using the 'How to make a Brooch Pin' instructions on the Hints & Tips page.

Step Two

Cut approx 1m of 0.8mm wire and shape it to fit twice around the back of the cabochon, then start to make a prong setting by bending one of the wires out at a right angle and back down again creating a 1cm strut. Squeeze it together with flat nose pliers so both wires are as close together as possible.

Step Three

Make another right angle bend at the bottom of the prong and continue shaping the wire around the framework before making another prong opposite the first.

Step Four

Continue in the same way until you have four prongs, then start to wrap the excess wire around the frame work making sure the coils are as close as possible to each other.

Step Five

Cut three lengths of wire (1 x 10", 1 x 8" and 1 x 6") and secure them in descending order to one edge of the frame. Continue wrapping your edging coil until the whole frame is covered making sure you cover the joins as you go.

Step Six

Using Flat Nose Pliers bend the prongs in a little and then place your cabochon into the frame. Bend the prongs further to encase the cabochon and hold it securely.

Step Seven

Bend the three wires over the cabochon into a wave pattern. Take the longest wire shape it around the end of the cabochon so that its furthest point touches the framework and its tail comes back to one of the prongs.

Step Eight

On each of the two shorter wires feed on a Pearl to the tip - Add a dab of glue for security if you wish. Holding the Pearl, spiral the wire around it and then downwards towards the cabochon.

Step Nine

When you are happy with both wires you can work harden them by gently bending them away from the cabochon and lightly hammering them using a Nylon Tip Hammer and Nylon Block. Do not hammer the Pearls.

Step Ten

Bend the wires back into position and secure them to the framework and each other using 0.4mm wire. Trim off any excess 0.4mm wire and tuck in any sharp edges with your Flat Nose Pliers.

Step Eleven

With the longest wire, wrap it around the prong before bending it into your desired shape and add a Pearl to the tip as you did in Step 8. Work harden this as per Step 9 and secure it to the other wires with 0.4mm wire.

Step Twelve

Turn the whole thing over and attach your brooch pin to the back of the frame using 0.4mm wire. Trim off and tuck in any sharp edges to complete the brooch.

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