Which Wire Should I use in Jewellery Making?

In the world of jewellery making, wire is a versatile and essential component that allows artisans to bring their creative visions to life. With a wide variety of wire types available, each possessing its unique characteristics, it's crucial to understand their properties and applications. In this blog, we will delve into the fascinating realm of wire and explore the different types commonly used in jewellery making.

There are lots of different jewellery making and crafting wires available so it is a good idea to understand what the gauges mean and how the wire might be used in your designs. Firstly, if you are making a simple pair of earrings, you may be able to substitute the wire for a Headpin. If you are embarking on making a pendant or anything involving wire weaving, you’ll need a structural wire and a weaving wire. Structural wire is usually the thickest wire in your project often this will be 1mm or more in thickness, although a 0.8mm may be enough, whilst the weaving wire will be a thinner one such as a 0.5mm or thinner.

Bare Copper Wire

An inexpensive wire, it’s a single thread of copper with no coating. Copper like this can be patented using Liver of Sulphur to give it a darkened antique appearance. Copper without a coating comes with a warning; it will oxidize if it comes into contact with sweat, lotion and other chemicals which will make your skin go green, to prevent this coat it with clear nail polish.

Plated Copper Wire

The most popular of the plated wires are Gold Plated, Silver Plated and Rose Gold Plated, but also available in a rainbow of other colours. They have the look of an expensive metal but with a pocket friendly price tag. Most beginners would use this to get started and practice designs until they’re confident to move into precious metals like Sterling Silver.

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Sterling Silver Wire

This wire is used in the same way as plated but as it is a precious metal it will add value to your designs and you may want to use it sparingly, or perhaps after you have had a bit of practice.

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Fine Silver

Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver, it is very soft and is more expensive than any of the plated alternatives, it is used by jewellers for making fine jewellery like rings, creating findings, wire wrapping gemstones, Cloisonné Enamel work, repairing silverwork and soldering.

Bezel Strip

Bezel strip is flat rectangular silver wire used to set gemstones and cabochons in jewellery, it is also available in base metal such as copper.

Gallery Wire (Plated)

Gallery Wire is a decoratively cut version of Bezel strip, either in Silver or base metal it makes a lovely bezel around cabochon gemstones.

Gallery Wire (Sterling Silver)

A beautiful high-end finish for your cabochons, this intricately cut precious metal gives a professional finish to your jewellery.

Round Wire

Round wire is the most used for wire wrapping and creating wirework weaves, it comes in base metal, plated metal and precious metals, and it’s an essential for anyone wanting to create wirework jewellery or sculpture.

Half Round Wire/ D-Shaped Wire

Half Round or D-Shape wire, so called because if you cut across it, it’s literally ‘D’ shaped with a curved top edge and a flat underside. This type of wire is perfect for making rings and bangles.

Square Wire

This wire has four faces and can be used either straight or twisted with a vice and pliers, it's great for rings and bangles, and sits flush side by side. You can bind them together using half round wire and Banding Pliers.

Twisted Wire

This wire is pre twisted so you don’t need to do it yourself, it’s a great decorative wire for adding a bit of texture into your work.

Aluminum

This is a very light weight and soft wire that can be used as a substitute for plated copper, however as it is so soft, it’s a good idea to use nylon pliers with it and don’t suspend anything too heavy from it.

Gold Filled Wire

Gold filled wire is a misnomer, its gold wire filled with a base metal alloy core. Or more specifically, yellow gold is pressure bonded to the brass or copper core. It is very durable and can last a lifetime if treated well and can be hammered to work harden and annealed to soften the same as sterling silver.

French Wire

French wire (also known as Bullion or Gimp Wire) is a very fine pre coiled tube of wire, it is used to protect silk threads in the same way that a wire guardian would, by encasing the silk with a more durable metal outer layer therefore reducing friction on the silk around the clasp. Be warned though if you overstretch the wire, it is almost impossible to get it back into the coil.

Tubular Wire

Tubular wire is like a large version of French wire (or a fine version of Gizmo coiling) It can be cut and used for decorative purposes and can be stretched out for a more open looking coil. It is not always easy to get it back into its original coiled form once it’s been stretched.

Tube

Metal Tube is fine pipe that can be cut into sections and fed onto threading materials as beads or spacers. It can also be used with a flaring tool to widen the opening at one end and be used for Tube Setting gemstones.

Wire Mesh Ribbon

Wire Mesh Ribbon has the initial appearance of a flat ribbon; however, it is a collapsed tube so can be stretched into all kinds of organic shapes and hold its form. Alternatively, you can push beads and wirework shapes into it to create a meshwork jacket around them.

Wire Crochet /Wire Knitted Tube

Although you can create your own wire crochet tube rope with a Viking Knit tool or a crochet hook, it is available in pre-made form too. This mesh tubing looks great filled with crystals or gemstones.

Understanding the different types of wire used in jewellery making allows artisans to choose the most suitable material for their designs. Whether it's beading wire for stringing delicate beads or sterling silver wire for intricate wirework, each wire type brings its unique qualities to the creative process. So, let your imagination soar and explore the limitless possibilities that these wires offer, as you craft beautiful, one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces.

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We hope this blog has been informative - until next time jewellery makers!

-JM