Tips on Designing Accessible Jewellery

by Guest Designer Carol Vickers

Hi everyone, it's guest designer Carol Vickers here with another blog for JewelleryMaker. Below you'll be able to read some Tips on Designing Accessible Jewellery. Enjoy!

You may not know that I originally went to silversmithing classes because I wanted to learn to make my own medical finger splints. I have a connective tissue disorder, which means that my finger joints are weak and need support. I was getting finger splints from the Doctor, but they were ill-fitting and bendy, so I thought “How hard can it be?” and I decided to learn to make my own! That was in 2019, and it was the start of my metalsmithing journey.

I’ve been a disability campaigner for a long, long time and I wanted to incorporate this passion into my jewellery. Friends, family and customers would say to me that they struggled with fiddly clasps due to manual dexterity challenges, or they couldn’t get their rings on due to arthritis, so I began designing jewellery that was accessible for people with health conditions. There are lots of ways to make jewellery that’s easier to put on and take off, or that accommodates body changes caused by ill health, and my customers are always so happy that they no longer have to rely on other people to do up their necklace, or that they can still wear rings despite knuckle pain or swollen hands.

One of the things that can be a struggle, whether through age, hand problems, or reduced eyesight, is doing up clasps. Tiny bolt ring or lobster claw clasps require quite precise hand control to operate those little triggers. Instead, you can try using large toggle clasps, which are easier to hold and to see. JM stocks these regularly in both plated and solid silver options, so there’s a version for everyone whether you’re into beading, metalsmithing or wire wrapping. Some people find magnetic clasps a good solution, as they will align and close themselves as long as you hold them near one another. JM regularly has new designs in magnetic clasps of different sizes and colours but do be aware that magnets are not suitable for people with pacemakers.

Alternatively, you can design and make your own clasps with large hooks and eyes, so that they are easy to manipulate. I like to make decorative clasps that are worn at the front of the necklace, so you can see them while you’re putting your necklace on. This snake clasp is a good example of how I incorporate decorative, accessible clasps into my pieces; it’s not just functional, it’s part of the necklace design and worn at the front, with a sturdy but simple fastening.

Many people like adjustable rings, as they can accommodate hand swelling or knuckle pain. An adjustable ring is any ring where the ring shank is left open, rather than soldered or closed in another way at a fixed size. The ring shank needs to be the perfect balance of flexible and sturdy and this can be achieved with 1.3mm to 2mm wire, or in 0.8mm to 1mm metal sheet, depending on your design. But bear in mind that all metals will eventually snap if repeatedly bent in the same place, so no ring is infinitely adjustable and if you gift or sell an adjustable ring, make sure the recipient knows that! However, it’s really helpful to some customers to have that slight flexibility so that their ring will stretch slightly to accommodate changes in their fingers. Bypass and open-back styles lend themselves to adjustable designs well, such as these ones I’ve made.

Some people would prefer not to worry about sizing or clasps at all. This is where memory wire is a brilliant solution. Rings, bracelets and chokers can be made with memory wire that will fit multiple sizes and require very little dexterity to put on and take off, so are suitable for a huge range of people. It’s sturdy, so will stand the test of time, and it’s available in a range of colours to complement all your favourite gemstones. As I’m obsessed with pearls, I have obviously made some accessible freshwater pearl jewellery, which was featured in an adaptive clothing fashion shoot in London earlier this year. These styles work for most people, whether they have limb differences, dexterity challenges, or other health conditions. Lariat necklaces can also be inclusive and easy to wear, for similar reasons.

Last but not least, the humble slider bracelet. These are so handy (pun intended) because many people can use the slider instead of the clasp to put on or take off the bracelet. JM slider bracelets come in many different designs and they’re perfect for personalised designs featuring birthstones, wire writing, etc. They’re quick to make too; this one took me less than an hour to put together.

Inclusive and accessible jewellery can be worn by anyone, not just those who need adaptations to accommodate their health. But for people who have a disability or long-term health condition, accessibility can be the difference between wearing their jewellery or having to leave it in their jewellery box. I truly believe that everyone should be able to wear beautiful jewellery that reflects their personality and uniqueness. Why not try incorporating some accessible features in your next creation? I can’t wait to see what you make!

Carol x

- A blog by guest designer Carol Vickers