Jewellery Making Tutorial: How to Make a Wirework Fox
- A tutorial by jewellery maker Sean Kerr
I love wirework. It’s a real passion of mine, and I am constantly trying to push myself into learning more advanced and complex techniques. It’s thanks to incredible designers like Alison Tarry and Rachel Norris that I have been able to learn this wonderful artform, and it is thanks to them that my brain works overtime to come up with different designs.
Foxy isn’t a quick tutorial, and I will warn you, some bits of it are mighty fiddly. However, that’s how you learn. When I started, I went straight for the difficult, complex tutorials because I’m a bit of a sadist like that and I love complex, detailed work. It allowed me to learn and because it tested me, it pushed me further. Foxy isn’t the most difficult design to make, but it does use some varied techniques which can prove challenging. But you know what, it’s only wire. If you make a mistake, try again. And take your time. Some of the elements in this are small and prove a bit awkward to weave into the frames, but you CAN do it because you are fantastic makers.
Materials Used
Tools Used
You can use seed beads for the details instead of the gemstones. When I made the mock up to test the design, I used gold seed beads and silver seed beads and it looked lovely. However, just keep in mind that the seed beads are smaller than the gemstones so you may have to adjust the number of wraps you use in your design. What I will say though is if you can stretch to the gemstones suggested, the finished design is spectacular. The micro faceted gemstones really stand out and sparkle, and they bring Foxy to life.
Step 1
Hold a ruler up to the screen and adjust the image until the rulers match in size. Print off the image but make sure you print the actual size. Do NOT use the fit to screen or paper function as that will distort the image.
Step 2
Do the same with the second template which shows the breakdown of each frame together with the details. I covered each of my templates with clear tape which made them last longer, or you could laminate them.
Step 3
Cut a 20 inch length of 1mm copper wire. This may seem like a lot but it is much easier to work with then bending. Use a sharpy to mark the middle point and form a sharp bend as in picture 3.
Step 4
Use your chain nosed pliers to tightly squeeze the first 1mm of the bend together. This will form a very sharp angle and will allow for a lovely sweeping curve as we shape the tail.
Step 5
Use the template showing the separate frames. I used a combination of my fingers and flat nosed pliers to pull and pinch the wire into shape. Cut off the excess wire so that the frame matches up with the drawing, but keep the cut offs as we will use them next.
At this point, the frame will have no substance to it. When we come to adding in the details, it will pull the frame together and you must constantly compare it to the drawing and tweak the shape as you go.
Step 6
Using the longest of the cutoffs from the tail frame, start shaping the first ‘lightning streak’ . I began by forming the upper curl using my needle nosed pliers. Keep holding the detail against the drawing so that they match as much as possible.
Step 7
Holding the wire against the drawing, I marked the wire with a sharpy pen where it needed to be bent. I then used my flat nosed pliers to form the bend. I then used my chain nosed pliers to pinch the first 1mm of the bend together to form a very sharp ben. Then gently pull the wire away into the next shape as shown in picture 7. Don’t be too rough with the wire because you don’t want it to snap. However, its only a bit of wire and if it goes wrong, start again.
Step 8
Continue with this method, marking each bend with a sharpy as you go, and pinching each angle to sharpen and exaggerate the angle. Keep comparing it against the drawing until you end up with the first streak as in picture 8.
Step 9
Repeat the process with the second cutoff for the smaller lightning streak. It’s a good idea to place both streak details inside the drawing to make sure everything fits and matches. Make any small adjustments accordingly.
Step 10
Cut 3 x 6 inch lengths of 1mm, copper wire and make the three swirl frames using your needle nosed pliers. Check each one against the drawing to make sure they match.
As we come to weaving the pieces into place, you will need to make small adjustments to the curls as you go to make them fit. This is perfectly normal and part of the process.
Step 11
For the tail and the bail detail, we will use the 2mm Carnary Zircon gemstones. Cut up the strand and place the stones on a safe surface. I used a beading mat. You will see that the colours and tones vary dramatically, so I used a mixture of the darkest colours within the tail detail.
Step 12
Cut a 1.5m length of weaving wire. This may seem like a lot, but you will be surprised how much is needed to make all the co9ils as you wrap.
Start at the top curl area, and leaving a 6inch tail at the curl end, start wrapping down the length of the streak until you reach the first angle.
Keep your wraps tight and regularly squeeze them together to achieve a neat finish.
Step 13
Place your streak into position within the tail frame. Using the tail of weaving wire at the curl, wrap twice around the strake and the frame to bring them together as shown in picture 13.
Step 14
Add a Zircon to your weaving wire and continue to wrap around the streak and frame. Finish by wrapping 4 or 5 times around the tail frame and cut away any weaving wire. Smooth down any sharp ends with your flat nose pliers.
Step 15
Continuing with your long length of weaving wire, attach the angle to the tail frame with 2 wraps as shown in picture 15.
Step 16
Add a Zircon to your weavi9ng wire and continue to wrap around the streak and tail frame a couple of more times.
Now continue wrappi8ng up the streak and then back down towards the next angle. Make sure to push your wraps together to form a tight, neat design.
Step 17
Continue in this fashion, adding in a Zircon wherever the angles and curls meet the tail frame. Finish your wraps by wrappi8ng around the tail frame 4 or 5 times and then cut off any excess. Smooth sharp ends down with your flat nosed pliers.
Your design should look like picture 17 at this stage.
Step 18
Place the second streak into the frame so that you can make sure it fits correctly and you can judge where it needs to be attached.
Step 19
Cut a 1.5m length of weaving wire, and leaving a 6 inch tail by the curl, start wrapping down the streak towards the first angle.
Step 20
Using the same method as before, attach the curl end to the tail frame and insert a Zircon. Finish with 43 or 5 wraps on the tail frame, cut away any remaining weaving wire and smooth down.
Step 21
Wrap around the two angles of the streaks twice to attach them together and then add in a Zircon. Wrap around both streaks a further 2 times before continuing up the streak and down again as shown in picture 21. Keep your wraps tight together.
Step 22
Use the same technique when you reach the next angle, binding the two streaks together before adding in a Zircon. Continue with 2 more wraps around both before continuing up the streak.
Step 23
Continue with this method until your design looks like picture 23. I had to adjust the final curl when I reached it for it to fit correctly, and I did this by laying the frames over the drawing and gently tweaking the curl with my needle nosed pliers until I was happy with the positioning. Finish your wraps with 4 or 5 wraps around the tail frame. Cut off any remaining weaving wire and smooth down where you trimmed.
Step 24
This is where it starts to get a bit tricky. Place the first of your curls into the frame. Make any small adjustments with your needle nosed pliers until you are happy that it fits. Take a deep breath, make a cup of coffee and lets get weaving!
Step 25
Cut 1m of weaving wire and wrap around the lower edge of the curl as shown in picture 25. The tail at the end of the curl needs to be about 6 inches. I started wrapping where I thought the curl will meet the curl of the streak next to it, and I finished wrapping where I thought he curl meets the lover curl of the streak next to it.
Step 26
The tail of the wire here is quite long so it’s a bit difficult to work with but stick with it. I wrapped once around the curl and streak frame and then added in my Zircon. I wrapped once more around both details and then continued to wrap up the longer length of the curl. I found it easier to slightly bend the curl out of shape so that I could continue my wraps around the curl without having to feed wire back and forth through it all.
Step 27
I continued wrapping up the curl, attaching it to the top of the tail frame with a couple of wraps before adding in my Zircon. I then wrapped around both frames twice before finishing with 4 or 5 wraps around the tail frame. Cut away the remaining weaving wire and smooth down any sharp edges.
Using the 6 inch tail we left at the beginning, I attached the beginning of the curl to the top curl of the streak next to it using 2 wraps. Them I added in my Zircon, did 2 more wraps around both before finishing with 4 or 5 wraps around the tail frame only. Cut away the remaining weaving wire and smooth down any sharp edges.
Step 28
Place the next swirl into place and make any small adjustments until yo are happy with it. Keep comparing it and overlaying it over the drawing.
Step 29
Cut 1m of weaving wire and begin to wrap around the top edge of the curl as shown in picture 29, leaving a 6 inch tail towards the end of the curl.
Step 30
Use the 6 inch tail to attach the curl to the tail frame with 2 wraps. Add in a Zircon then wrap around both frames twice. Finish with 4 or 5 wraps around the tail frame.
Step 31
Working with the long length of weaving wire at the top of the curl, attach the curl to the tail frame with 2 wraps. Add in a Zircon, make 2 more wraps around both frames and then continue wrapping down the curl until you meet the curl next to it as shown in picture 31.
Step 32
Bind the two curls together with 2 wraps and then add in a Zircon. Make two more wraps around both curls before continuing down the length of the curl towards the tail frame as shown on picture 32.
Step 33
Wrap around both frames twice and then add in your Zircon. Wrap around both frames twice before continuing around the curl as shown in picture 33. My wire in this picture is going under both the curls because that just happens to be the direction I was weaving.
Step 34
Wrap around both curls twice and then add in your Zircon. Wrap around both curls again twice and then continue wrapping around the one curl. This is a tight space and if you have too much weaving wire left to handle, then you can cut some of it off. You now need to wrap a couple of times around the two small curls as shown in picture 34.
Step 35
Try and wrap around these small curls at least once before adding in your Zircon. Then wrap around both once more before wrapping a few times around the remainder of the curl. This is a difficult bit I know, but its worth taking your time. Cut away the remaining weaving wire and smooth down your ends.
Step 36
Place your final small curl into position. You will have two longish lengths of wire left on the tail frame and this is what you want. Make any small adjustments with your needle nosed pliers and keep comparing it to the drawing.
Step 37
Cut 1m of weaving wire and find the middle of it. Wrap around the middle of the curl, working out from both ends towards the curved parts.
Step 38
Attach the frames together with 2 wraps, add in your Zircon and wrap around both frames twice more before continuing to wrap around the upper curl. Attach the curl to the tail frame with 2 wraps and then add in a Zircon. Wrap around both frames 2 more times before finishing off with 4 or 5 wraps around the tail frame. Cut off the tail and smooth down.
My remaining tail is running under the two curl frames in the picture.
Step 39
Using the remaining tail, wrap around the two curl frames twice, add in a Zircon, wrap around both twice and then continue down the curl towards the tail frame.
Attach the curl to the tail frame with 2 wraps. Add in a Zircon then wrap around both twice more. Finish with 4 or 5 wraps on the tail frame. Curt away your weaving wire and smooth down any ends.
That is it for the tail for now! I know it’s a bit of a difficult make, but it really is worth taking your time to get it right. It looks odd at the moment, but when we start to put everything together, the design will come to life.
We will now move on to making the snout, so you may want to put the kettle on again!
Step 40
Cut 20 inches of 1mm copper wire and find the middle. Use your chain nosed pliers to form a bend as shown in picture 40.
Step 41
Using the template, make the frame for the snout. You will end up with two long tails which is correct because we will use these later as parrt5 of the bail. Take your time to get the frame right.
Step 42
Cut 1.5m of weaving wire and leaving a 6 inch tail on the right hand side of the frame, wrap around the short length at the bottom of the snout. Keep your wraps tight together by compressing them. Make sure when you are weaving that the direction of the wire is such that it comes over the top of the wire towards the right when you reach the end.
I know this is a lot of weaving wire to contend with, but this part will use a lot of wire.
Step 43
We will now use a weave called the basket weave. We will work from left to right. Your wire is coming over the top of the frame wire pointing towards the right. Wrap twice around the left wire, come down in between the frame wires and under the right hand wire. Wrap twice around the right hand wire, come down between the 2 frame wires towards the left hand side and under the left hand frame wire. Wrap around the left hand wire twice, then come down between the two frame wires and under the right hand wire. Wrap twice around the right hand wire then come down between the two frame wires and under the left hand wire. Wrap around the left hand wire twice.
Step 44
Keep going in this zig zag fashion until you have filled in this first section of the snout. Remember to keep compressing the weave down and keep your tension taught as you work your way up. The small tail at the beginning will be used later to help sew the head and tail frames together.
Step 45
Cut a 7 inch length of 0.8mm copper wire and find the middle of it. Cut a 1.5m length of weaving wire.
Place the 0.8mm wire inside the frame with the middle being at the level of the top of the basket weave. Leaving a 2 inch tail of weaving wire, wrap around both wires twice, then wrap around the inner 0.8mm wire 4 times. Use your pliers to gently squash the weave together.
Step 46
Wrap around both wires twice, then around the top 0.8mm wire 4 times. Wrap around both wires twice, wrap around the upper wire 4 times. Squish the weave together with your pliers to keep the pattern tight.
Step 47
Continue this weaving pattern up towards the tip of the ear.
Step 48
Use your flat nosed pliers to bend the 0.8mm wire down to follow the outer frame wire. Keep the bend tight. I then placed the frame against the head outline of the main drawing and used a sharpy to mark where the head frame meets the ear frame. You can see in picture 48 where I marked the wires. This is the point to where I will end my weave.
Step 49
I continued my 2/4 weave until I reached the point I marked. Cut off the remaining wire and smooth down the edge. You can also cut away the small tail from the beginning and smooth down any sharp ends.
Step 50
Using your flat nosed pliers, bend the inner 0.8mm wire sharply, as shown in picture 50.
Step 51
Using your pliers, bend the wire up sharply. You are tracing the outline of the woven frame.
Step 52
Using your pliers, bend the wire down. Pinch either side of the angle with your flat nosed pliers to sharpen the angle.
Step 53
Form a curl inside the ear and cut away any remaining frame wire from this curl. Use your needle nosed pliers to form and adjust the curl until it looks like picture 53.
Step 54
We will now work with the tail bit of the 0.8mm wire from this section. Using your fingers, bend the wire upwards, forming a gentle curve as shown in picture 54.
Step 55
Use your fingers and the needle nosed pliers to form the rest of the wire into a curl that fills the space. You may not need all of the wire that is left, and once you have formed the curl, curt away the remaining 0.8mm wire. It should look like picture 55.
Step 56
Now you need to repeat these steps on the other side. First, however, you need to attach some weaving wire to the frame. Cut a 1.5m length of weaving wire and attach it to the frame at the point where the basket weave part ends on the right hand side. Cut away the short tail and continue to weave in your details.
Step 57
Take your time to adjust the frame and the curls so that they look symmetrical. I needed to make some fine adjustments to the right hand curl here, so this is the perfect time to do so before we make the inner snout.
Step 58
Cut a 7 inch length of 1mm wire. You will need x1 4mm Black Tourmaline and a step mandrel to help form the loop. Alternatively, you can use your needle nosed pliers to start forming the loop.
Step 59
Find the middle of your length of wire and use your pliers to form a loop. Place the loop over the 4mm gem and continue to tighten up the loop by pinching it together until the gem fits snuggly but not tight within the loop.
Step 60
Using your flat nosed pliers, straighten the tails of the wire until your little frame looks like picture 60.
Step 61
We are going to attach 2 wires to this little frame. Cut a 1m length of weaving wire, and leaving a 6 inch tail at the bottom of the loop, start to weave around the loop until you are half way up the side.
Step 62
Cut another 1m length of weaving wire and repeat the process on the other side. You now have two tails at the bottom which we will use later. You have two long lengths of wire coming away from the loop.
Step 63
Criss cross your wires through the 4mm black Tourmaline by feeding your wire through either side. When you pull on your wires, the bead will move down to the frame and tighten. Work slowly.
Step 64
Keep pulling your wires through the bead until it sits into place. We will be using this crisscross method for all the stones we set in this frame and its important to make sure every time that all your wires are pulled through the stone.
Continue wrapping up either side of the loop until the wraps reach the straight wires.
Step 65
Feed on a Zircon and crisscross through it. Gently pull the Zircon down into position.
Step 66
Once your stone is in position, bring your wires underneath the frame so that when you wrap around each frame 4 times, you want your wire to come over the top edge of the frame so that its in the correct position to add your next stone as shown in picture 66.
Step 67
Add a Zircon and crisscross your wires through the stone. Pull yor wires through and bring the gem down onto the frame.
Step 68
Bring your wire down under the frame wires and then wrap around each side four times. Your wires should be coming up the outer edges of the frame wire and over the top ready for the next stone.
Step 69
Continue this method until you have 8 Zircons in place and finish with 4 wraps on each side.
Step 70
Cut your base wires to 1.5cm after the stones. Bend them outwards slightly as in picture 70.
Step 71
Using your needle nose pliers. Curl the ends of the frame inwards. It will form a heart shape. The picture looks like the curls are uneven, but that’s the angle of the photo. When I placed this frame over the snout, I made slight adjustments to correct it, and that is the nature of wire work.
Step 72
Place the nose frame over the snout and ear frame. Using the tails from sewing in the black gemstone nose, attach the nose to the frame with a few wraps on each side. Do not cut off the tails yet.
Step 73
Using the left over weaving wire at the top of the nose frame, attach the frame to the curl beneath using a few wraps on either side. Three or four wraps should do it to secure it into place. Then continue to wrap around the curl itself for a bit, 3 or 4 wraps, then cut off the excess weaving wire and smooth down the edges.
Step 74
Picture 74 shows the head so far. You still have some tail wires attached. Use this time to make any small adjustments to the curls until you are happyt with the position of everything.
We will now start to work on the eyes.
Step 75
Cut x2 lengths of 0.8mm silver wire. I used approx. 4 inches for each. Make the two small curls from the template.
Step 76
Cut a 1m length of silver weaving wire. Leaving a 4 inch tail, start in the middle of the curl and weave out towards one end of the curl. Cut another 1m length of weaving wire and repeat. You want to have 2 4 inch tails coming out from the middle of the curl and then the rest going towards the curls. It feels like a lot of wire to contend with but while this bit is fiddly, you will be grateful for the amount of wire we use as it makes it easier to manipulate.
Step 77
Roughly place the frame into position and continue wrapping either side of the curl until it reaches the points you can see in the picture. Try to keep your wraps tight together by compressing them now and again.
Step 78
We will also be working with the gorgeous Topaz strand. Lay out a few of the gemstones nearby. You will need 4 for the eyes.
Step 79
Attach the eye frame to the snout with 2 wraps. Add a Topaz and wrap around twice again. Finish with 4 or 5 wraps on the curl. Cut off the tail and smooth down the edge.
Step 80
Thread on a 4mm black Tourmaline onto the two wire tails in the middle of the curl frame.
Step 81
You may need to use a needle to make a hole in the 4/2 weave in the ear frame because you want to feed your silver tail wire through the two wires of the ear frame. Wrap around the bottom ear frame wire twice and repeat with the second silver tail wire. While this is tight, it is doable and really secures the stone and frame into place.
Step 82
You will notice that there is quite a gap between the curl and the ear frame on the other side. Instead of wrapping the frames together, we will jump across this gap using a Topaz. Thread a Topaz onto the silver wire. You may need to make a slight gap between the two wires of the ear frame with a needle. Feed your silver wire between the two copper frame wires on the ear frame and wrap the wire around the bottom ear frame wire 3 or 4 times. Do not cut off the silver wire because we will use this later.
Step 83
With the eyes in place, you can now see your design coming to life. You also have 2 silver wires coming out towards the top edge of the eyes, and 3 copper wires coming out of the nose area. We will use these wires to lash the frame to the next frame we will make.
Step 84
Cut a 20 inch length of 1mm silver wire. Using the template, make the rounded head frame and end with the long tails pointing upwards as in picture 84.
Step 85
Place the snout/eye frame over the silver head frame. Use the copper tails left over to attach the frames together, weaving through the snout 2 or 3 times with each tail wire to attach it to the silver frame. Do not cut off the tails.
Step 86
Using the silver wire left from the eyes, lash the ear frame to the silver head frame either side, and finish with 4 or 5 wraps on the silver frame.
You will notice that the long tail wires from the frames are coming out of the top of the head. The copper frame wires should be sitting between the silver frame wires. We will use these later to make the bail.
Step 87
With the silver wire still attached, wrap down until you meet the curl of the eye. Wrap around the curl and the head frame twice. There may be a slight gap, but the stone will cover that.
Step 88
Add in a Topaz, wrap around the head frame and the curl 2 more times and then finish with 4 or 5 wraps around the silver head frame. Cut off the remaining weaving wire and smooth down any ends.
Step 89
Repeat this on the other side. Your work should now look like picture 89 and the only tail wires left are the ones coming out of the nose area.
Step 90
We will now attach the tail to the head. This bit is a bit tricky so take a deep breath. Take your time and just work through it slowly.
The two lengths of wire coming out of the tail need to slide into the head , sitting over the bottom of the head frame but sitting behind the eye frame.
Step 91
Using the copper wire tails, lash the tail frame to the head frame as much as possible. Use up all the wire until you have only the slightest tails to cut away and smooth. When we add in the last silver curls later, we will also use some of the silver wire to further strengthen this join.
Step 92
This bit is a bit tough and you need a brave heart, but don’t worry, you can do it. The two wires left over from the tail need to be wrapped around the silver head frame at least once. The 1mm copper wire may prove a bit tough to work with by this point, but it is worth making them as tight as possible here with your pliers. Snip away the remaining wire at the back of the design and flatten down the join with your pliers.
Step 93
Cut two 4inch lengths of 1mm silver wire and make the last two larger curls. Check them against the drawing to make them as accurate as possible.
Step 94
Sit the curl inside the head frame to make sure it fits. Make any slight adjustments with your needle nosed pliers at this stage.
Step 95
Cut a 1m length of silver weaving wire and find the middle. Wrap around the middle of the curl and work outwards either side of the curl until your wraps match up with the eye curl and the head frame as shown in picture 95.
Step 96
I lashed the larger curl to the bottom curl of the eye twice. I didn’t add in a gem here because I felt it was too crammed. Continue around the culr and lash it to the snout with 2 wraps, add in a Topaz and wrap twice more around the snout and curl. Continue wrapping down the curl until you reach the join and lash the tail, curl and head frames together with 2 wraps. Add in a Topaz and then wrap around the tail, head and curl frame another two times before finishing your wraps around the silver head frame wirth 4 or 5 wraps. Cut off the remains and smooth down.
On the other side, I continued to wrap down until I reached the point where the curl reached the head frame. Lash them together with 2 wraps, add in a topaz and another 2 wraps around both the curl and head frame. Finish with 4 or 5 wraps around the silver head frame before cutting away the remaining wire and smoothing down.
Step 97
I repeated this process on the other side, except because there is a space between the tail and the head, I simply wrapped the weaving wire around the silver head frame.
That is the hardest part of this project completed. We will now move on to making the bail and some pretty dangly drops!
Step 98
Your remaining frame tails are too long, so we will now reduce them. Hold a ruler to the wires and measure 7 inches from the base. Cut off anything left above that to reduce the tails and make them more manageable.
Step 99
Cut 1.5m of silver weaving wire and wrap around the silver tail 4 times leaving a 6 inch tail. Using the tail, lash the silver frame wire to the ear frame with 3 or 4 wraps and finish with 3 or 4 wraps around the silver head frame. Cut off any remaining tail and smooth down. Repeat this process on the other side with another length of weaving wire.
Step 100
You now have 2 new weaving wires attached to the silver frame tails. You have 4 wraps around each silver tail. Remember to compress your weave down with pliers to keep it neat.
Step 101
Wrap around both the silver and copper wire 4 times and bring your wire up between the silver and copper wire.
Step 102
Wrap around the copper wire 4 times. Your wire should be coming over the top of the copper wire towards the middle as in picture 102.
Step 103
Repeat this on the other side, making sure that your wires are coming out between the silver and copper tails. This is the correct position for the addition of a gemstone.
Step 104
Add in a Zircon using the crisscross technique and bring the gem down to the frame, ensuring that all the wire is pulled through the stone.
Step 105
Wrap around both wires 4 times, then bring the weaving wire up between the silver and copper tails and wrap around the copper wire 4 times.
Step 106
Repeat this on the other side. Your wires should be coming up between the base wire so that they go over the top of the copper wires towards the middle. This is the correct direction to add in the next stone. Keep compressing your weave after the addition of each stone to keep it neat.
Step 107
Repeat the process until you have 14 Zircon in place. Finish your wraps with 10 wraps around the copper wire on each side. Cut off the weaving tails and smooth down any sharp edges.
Step 108
Hold a ruler to the bail and measure 1 inch from the end of the eave and cut the tails down.
Step 109
Bend the bail towards you slightly.
Step 110
Use a pen to bend the bail around.
Step 111
Picture 111 shows the back of the pendant. You can see that I have bent the bail over until the bottom of the weave sits roughly with the top of the silver head frame.
Step 112
Feed the silver tails through to the front of the piece and then wrap them around the frame. It’s a bit fiddly and the wire is hard by this point, so take your time and make sure it is tight. Cut off the remains of the silver wire and smooth down with your pliers.
Step 113
Cut the copper tails down until you have 1cm left on each side.
Step 114
Curl the copper ends inwards so that no sharp ends remain exposed.
Step 115
This is how your pendant looks so far. You can, if you wish, leave it like this. However, I chose to add some further detail to give the design some movement and extra sparkle.
Step 116
Onto a featherweight headpin, I added x1 4mm black Tourmaline, x1 Topaz and x1 Zircon.
Step 117
Using my needle nosed pliers, I made a loop.
Step 118
I wrapped the loop directly onto the bottom of the tail frame. However, its not tight on the frame. I kept it very loose so that the droplet moves freely.
Step 119
I made a total of 6 droplets and picture 119 shows where to hang them. I felt this made a huge difference to the finished piece art it gives Foxy movement and extra sparkle.
And there we have it. I know this is a very long tutorial, and it is quite complex and fiddly in places. But that’s my favourite type of tutorial. Something I can get my teeth into, that challenges me and makes me want to make more!
I really hope you have enjoyed making this with me, and I really hope you will share your work with us on the Wall Of Fame because I would love to see it!
Thank you for using this tutorial, and I really look forward to working with you soon on the next one! Happy wire weaving.
Love and hugs from Cardiff
- Sean
