Christmas Necklace and Earring Set Jewellery Making Tutorial

- A blog by jewellery maker Sean Kerr

I love Christmas. It’s a very special time of year for me and my family. Perhaps its all the lights that fascinate me, but it’s more likely that everything seems to have a sparkly sheen about it that only happens at this time of year. And you know me, I like my jewellery sparkly, so it felt right to create something with a festive theme.

This necklace and earring set is definitely a labour of love, but the techniques you learn here may be applied to so many colour variations that you most definitely will be able to create a look other than the Christmas theme we will 8use here. Imagine this necklace in black and gold! WOW. The beauty of jewellery making is that you let your imagination fly, and the possibilities for colour schemes feel almost endless for this design. Furthermore, once you know how to make all the elements, you may assemble and create something that is unique to you. Tutorials are a fantastic tool for learning new techniques, but they are not meant to be the definitive version of a design. Explore different ways of bringing it together. Make something unique and beautiful just for you.

So, I’m not going to lie. This design is a bit time consuming. I guess from start to finish this was 3 days of work for me, though I was taking photos of each step which slowed things down. It’s not a difficult tutorial and it features a really useful and easy way to bezel a crystal Rivoli, however, to re-create my design you need a lot of elements, and it’s that which takes time. Funny enough, it was the assembly which proved the fiddliest part because I wanted it to thread onto memory wire to create a choker style necklace. But, like everything else we do with seed beading, take a deep breath and make lots of coffee because it’s worth persevering. The colours and the sparkle in this set look fabulous, and how amazing will you feel on Christmas morning when you walk into a room wearing this beauty!

Materials used:

• Miyuki Metallic Dark Bronze Seed Beads 8/0 (22GM/TB)

• Miyuki Opaque Red Seed Beads 11/0 (24GM/TB)

• Miyuki Silver Lined Olive AB Seed Beads 11/0 (24GM/TB)

• Ginko Bronze Pale Gold Beads (22GM/TB)

• 3 x Strands Green Tone Glass Bicones, Approx 4mm, 38cm Strands

• Ruby Glass Rivoli Approx 14mm (12pcs/pack)

I also used a size 12 Tulip beading needle and Nymo thread. I strung the components onto necklace memory wire to make the necklace. I used a pair of gold plated shepherd hook findings for the earrings.

Important note. You don’t have to use the memory wire for the neckline. I had a specific look and style in mind when planning the design for which the memory wire was perfect. However, you could use Fineline or Wildfire to thread on the components for a more traditional necklace, though it will hang slightly differently.

Steps

Step 1


Cut an arm's length of thread, approximately 1m. Add onto your thread 12 size 8 and 12 size 11 green beads, alternating size 8 and size 11, as shown in Picture 1.

Step 2


Go back around and sew through all the seed beads to form a circle, leaving a very small tail. Tie a double knot using the tail and main thread, followed by a single knot. Sew back through a few beads to hide the knot and make sure your thread is coming out of one of the size 11 green beads.

Step 3


Your thread is coming out of a size 11 green bead. Pick up 11 size 11 green beads. Skip over the next size 8, size 11, and size 8, and sew through the next size 11 green bead.

Step 4


Pull your thread tight, and the beads will form an arch, as shown in Picture 4. Your thread is coming out of a green size 11 bead. Repeat this process, adding 11 size 11 green beads, jumping over a size 8, size 11, and size 8 to sew into the next green size 11.

Step 5


When you have gone all the way around, your piece will look like a flower, as shown in Picture 5. Now sew up through the ‘petal’ until your thread is coming out of the 6th bead.

Step 6


Pick up 3 size 11 green beads, jump over the gap, and sew through the 6th bead in the next petal. Don’t pull your thread tight yet.

Step 7


Pick up 3 size 11 green beads, jump over the gap, and sew through the 6th bead in the next petal. Keep your tension loose at this point.

Step 8


Continue all the way around the petals until it looks like Picture 8. Your thread should be coming out of the 6th bead in a petal.

Step 9


Place your Rivoli face down into the bezel. For most of this component, we will be working from the back of the piece.

Step 10


Pull your thread tight. The petals will compress around the Rivoli, creating your basic bezel. Sew around the inner circle of beads a couple of times, but not so much that it gets tight because we will use these beads later when assembling the necklace. The Rivoli may feel a little loose at this point, but don’t worry. As we add the next few layers of embellishment, the bezel will tighten and feel more secure.

Step 11


When viewed from the front, the Rivoli is surrounded by a halo of seed beads and held in place by petals that look like triangles. This arrangement of beads is perfect for 14mm and 18mm Rivolis, which are commonly used in seed beading.

Step 12


Work from the back of the piece. Sew up 3 seed beads in the triangle surrounding the Rivoli. Do not include the bead in the circle. Ensure it is the right-hand wall of the triangle, or the 'V' shape shown in the picture.

Step 13


Pick up 1 size 8, 1 size 11 green bead, 1 Ginko bead, and 3 size 11 red beads.

Step 14


Sew down through the next hole in the top of the Ginko bead. Your thread is now coming out of the bottom hole of the Ginko. Pick up 1 size 11 green bead and 1 size 8 bead.

Step 15


Sew down the 3 seed beads on the left-hand triangle wall towards the circle, as shown in Picture 15. You are sewing down the opposite wall to the one your thread is coming out of.

Step 16


Pull your thread tight to position all the beads correctly.

Step 17


Sew through the seed beads in the circle until you reach the next triangle of beads.

Step 18


Sew up 3 beads on the right-hand wall of the triangle.

Step 19


Pick up 1 size 8, 1 size 11 green bead, 1 Ginko bead, and 3 size 11 red beads. Pass your needle down through the next hole in the Ginko, then pick up 1 size 11 green bead and 1 size 8 bead.

Step 20


Sew down the 3 beads on the left-hand wall of the triangle towards the circle. Pull your thread tight to position the beads. Sew through the beads in the circle towards the next triangle to start the next petal.

Step 21


Continue in this fashion until each triangle has a Ginko petal, with a total of 6 Ginko beads in place.

Step 22


Sew around until your thread is coming out of the size 8 bead in a Ginko petal, as shown in Picture 22.

Step 23


Your thread is coming out of the size 8 bead in the Ginko petal. Pick up 1 light green rondelle. The pack has 3 colours, and we will use the others later. Jump across and pass your needle up through the size 11 green bead in the next petal, as shown in Picture 23.

Step 24


Pick up 4 size 11 red beads and pass your needle through the 3 red beads sitting on top of the Ginko.

Step 25


Pick up 4 size 11 red beads and sew down through the size 11 green bead directly under the Ginko.

Step 26


Pull your thread tight to position the red beads. They should form a halo around the top edge of the Ginko.

Step 27


Your thread is coming out of the size 11 green bead directly under the Ginko. Pick up a pale green crystal and sew up through the next size 11 green bead sitting directly underneath the next Ginko. Pull your thread tight to position the crystal.

Step 28


Repeat the process. Pick up 4 size 11 red beads and sew through the 3 red beads on top of the Ginko. Pick up 4 size 11 red beads and sew down through the green size 11 bead directly underneath that Ginko, ready to place your next crystal. Pull your thread tight.

Step 29


Continue all the way around until you have a halo of red beads over each Ginko. End with your thread coming out of a pale green crystal. Keep your tension tight. Your component will start to curl slightly, which is what we want.

Step 30


Sew up through the red beads until your thread is coming out of the 6th red bead.

Step 31


Pick up 3 size 11 red beads and sew back around the bead you are coming out of.

Step 32


When you pull your thread tight, the 3 beads you have just picked up will form a small picot on the halo. This adds to the floral design of the component. I know the picture shows the front of the piece, but it’s actually easier to work from the back. Your thread should now be coming out of the bottom bead in the red halo.

Step 33


Pick up 2 size 11 red beads and sew up through the red halo in the next petal until your thread is coming out of the 6th red bead in the halo. When you pull your thread tight, the 2 beads you just added will sit around the top of the pale green crystal. The component will start to curl more, which is what we want.

Step 34


Pick up 3 size 11 red beads and sew around the bead you are coming out of to place the picot in position. Then sew down the remaining red beads.

Step 35

Pick up 2 size 11 red beads, and jump over the pale green crystal to sew up the next halo.

Step 36


Continue all the way around until you have placed a picot over each petal and each pale green crystal has a crown of red beads. At this point, I went around all the red beads again to strengthen the design. This also helps the beads sit properly. I then tied off my thread, passed through a few more beads to hide the knot, and cut away the thread. You have now finished your first component. I made five of these for the necklace and two for the earrings. The next stage will involve the remaining two strands of green crystals and the green seed beads to make the Christmas tree branches that will frame each flower in the necklace.

Step 37


We make the branches using a version of the St. Petersburg stitch. Don’t worry, it’s really easy but very effective. Begin by cutting an arm’s length of thread, approximately 1m. This length will usually make two components, so don’t worry if it seems like a lot of thread. Add a stopper bead to the end of the thread, leaving a 2-inch tail.

Step 38


For my design, I wanted the darkest green on the inside of the branches and the mid-green on the outer tips. However, you can do it the other way around if you prefer—this is your piece, so you decide how you want it to look. From here on, we will only use size 11 green beads, so I will refer to them simply as size 11. Pick up 1 size 11 bead, 1 dark green crystal, and 9 size 11 beads.

Step 39


Sew back on yourself by sewing through the 4th, 5th, and 6th beads from the crystal.

Step 40


When you pull your thread tight, the last three beads will sit beneath the row, as shown in Picture 40. Your thread is coming out of the end of the longest row of beads.

Step 41


Pick up 1 mid-green crystal and 1 size 11 bead. Sew back through the crystal and the 6 beads after the crystal, as shown in Picture 41. This positions the mid-green crystal at the tip of the branch.

Step 42


Your thread is now coming out of the start of the row. Repeat these steps multiple times to build the component. This is the basic structure of the St. Petersburg stitch.

Step 43


Pick up 1 dark green crystal and sew through the 3 size 11 beads sitting beneath the first row. Pull your thread tight.

Step 44


Pulling your thread tight positions the dark green crystal, and your thread will now be ready to make the next branch. As you progress, the component will curve, which is exactly what we want.

Step 45


Pick up 6 size 11 beads.

Step 46


Come around your work and sew through the 4th, 5th, and 6th beads from the dark green crystal.

Step 47


Pull your thread tight to position the 3 beads beneath your row, as shown in Picture 47.

Step 48


Pick up a mid-green crystal and a size 11 seed bead. Sew back through the crystal and the 6 seed beads toward the dark green crystal. This places the mid-green crystal at the end of the branch.

Step 49


Pick up 1 dark green crystal and sew through the 3 seed beads sitting beneath your last branch.

Step 50


Pull your thread tight to position the crystal. Your thread should now be coming out of the 3 seed beads, ready to add the next branch. Now it’s simply a case of rinse and repeat. It’s a relatively easy technique, and you’ll quickly pick up a rhythm and speed.

Step 51


Continue this method until you have 9 dark green crystals on the inner edge, as shown in Picture 50. Your thread should now be coming out of the 3 beads sitting beneath the last branch.

Step 52


To finish the branch, pick up 3 size 11 seed beads, 1 mid-green crystal, and 1 size 11 seed bead. Sew back through the crystal and the 6 size 11 beads to secure the crystal at the end of the branch.

Step 53


Sew back up through all the dark green crystals on the edge. Keep your tension tight to enhance the curve of the piece. Your thread should now emerge at the top, near the tail thread.

Step 54


Using your main thread and tail thread, tie a double knot followed by a single knot. Then pick up 1 size 11 green bead.

Step 55


Sew back down through all the dark green crystals, the 6 green seed beads, and the mid-green crystal. Cut off the excess thread and tail. Your branch component is now complete. You’ll need to make a total of 10 branches for the necklace. Because they’re reversible, they will frame either side of the flower components, giving the finished design the appearance of a glorious crystal wreath!

Step 56


Picture 56 shows the rough layout of the necklace. The branches themselves aren’t rigid and have some movement, giving the necklace a more naturalistic look.

Step 57


I used necklace memory wire to assemble my necklace because I wanted it to have an almost choker-like appearance to better resemble a wreath. The memory wire is structured, holding the flowers and branches in place beautifully, whereas a more traditional stringing technique might make the necklace look and feel floppy. I cut one and a half loops of memory wire, which provided plenty to work with.

Step 58


This part proved far more fiddly than expected. You’ll need patience! Take a deep breath, make a cup of coffee, and work methodically. From the back of the flower, locate the circle of green seed beads that we started with. Thread the memory wire through 3 seed beads in the circle. It’s a tight fit—exactly what you want—but don’t force it or risk breaking the beads. Take your time. It will work! Once the flower is centred on the wire, you’ll work on both sides simultaneously to ensure balance.

Step 59


After positioning the flower, thread 2 size 8 beads onto both sides of the wire and slide them down to the edge of the flower bezel, as shown in Picture 59.

Step 60


Use the dark green crystal and the 3 size 11 beads at the top of the branch component to thread it onto the memory wire. On the opposite side, work in reverse. If it doesn’t align perfectly, don’t worry—just slide it off and try again. It’s a bit like a puzzle! Once you figure it out, you’ll consistently thread the branches in the correct direction. The key is to always use the same beads at the top: the 3 green seed beads, the dark crystal, and the single seed bead after the crystal. Stick with it, and you’ll get there!

Step 61


After attaching a branch on each side of the flower, I used 2 size 8 beads, 1 pale green crystal, and 2 more size 8 beads as a spacer sequence between each "bunch" of components. This spacing worked well for me, but feel free to customise it to your liking.

Step 62


Once the spacer beads are in place, continue threading the branches and flowers, working on both sides as you go. Don’t forget to add 2 size 8 beads before and after each flower.

Step 63


This is how the necklace should look once everything is threaded. When worn, each element will sit perfectly around the neckline, and the memory wire ensures it stays in shape. You might need to adjust the "branches" slightly when putting it on, but this is common for complex seed bead jewellery.

Step 64


To finish the neckline, I added alternating size 8 beads and pale green crystals until I had 7 crystals on the wire. I finished with 2 size 8 beads.

Step 65


Coil the ends of the memory wire. Repeat this process on the other side.

Step 66


After forming loops at both ends of the wire, attach a clasp to one side using a jump ring, and an extender chain with a jump ring to the other. The extender chain allows the wearer to adjust the fit, while the memory wire keeps the necklace in shape.

Step 67


The earrings are simple to finish. Open the loop at the bottom of a shepherd hook earring finding and attach it to the top bead in one of the picot areas. Before doing this, use flat-nosed pliers to carefully twist the loop into the correct orientation. Be gentle to avoid snapping the loop (which I’ve done many times, lol).

And there you have it—you’ve completed your Christmas Embrace Necklace and Earrings! While the techniques aren’t overly difficult, they do require time and patience. Since there are so many elements to build, it can feel time-consuming, but the process is relaxing. I love repetitive work like this, as your fingers develop muscle memory. This design works beautifully in different colour-ways. While I chose traditional Christmas colours for a festive theme, imagine this in black for a stunning Gothic look, or in tones of purple! That’s the joy of seed beading—while tutorials teach the basics, your creative minds bring them to life in unique ways. Thank you for following this tutorial! I hope you feel inspired to create your own version. Please share your creations on the Wall of Fame or in our group—I’d love to see your work!

I hope you enjoyed my blog!

-Sean